Nicole Bridger SS09 @ BCFW
Who are you in the other hours
When your hair's undone
And your guard's let down
When you're all alone in your old nightgown
Are you the life of the party then?
Sitting by yourself, again
-Harry Connick Jr, "Other Hours"
When asked about her influence for her spring/summer 2009 collection, Nicole Bridger said that the underlying theme was "Be true to yourself"--namely, the learning and growth process behind self-acceptance. She took this abstract notion and envisioned how it might look in the form of clothing. What resulted was a collection that drew on menswear, minimalism, and a muted palette to create a surprisingly somber mood. Models sported tousled hair and natural-looking dewy makeup which made their skin glow. Perhaps for Nicole, being true to oneself meant stripping away the artifice, the disguises, and the glamour of pretence, and arriving at a look that represents the beauty of a woman "in the other hours."
Nicole professes to a passion for "sculpting fabric" acquired from her 2002 internship with Vivienne Westwood, a passion which is evident in her pieces. Jersey and modal skirts and dresses exhibited lovely movement and draping effects. Simple shifts bore unexpected details like side drapes which, upon closer inspection, turn out to be pockets. Menswear influences were also evident in pieces like oversized slouchy shirts, shorts, cropped pants, and shirtdresses. The softness of the collection was anchored by strong accessories in the form of unfinished leather tie belts and chunky-heeled leather sandals with thick straps. Like her previous collections, this one stressed eco-friendliness and sustainability by using fabrics such as organic cotton, hemp, modal, and linen.
Overall, the pieces are lovely--they're just not my cup of tea. The collection hits just the right note for the urban hipster girl who frequents obscure art galleries. In short, it's perfect for someone, just not perfect for me, so I can't criticize it on that point.
In fact, I was only truly disappointed when Nicole veered from her slouchy hipster gallerina look and sent two formal evening dresses down the runway--a knee-length strapless navy number and a full-length strapless white gown. The busts on these dresses looked like they had fit problems, pressing into the models' chests and looking a little too precarious, as though any sudden movement would expose the audience to a peep-show they hadn't signed up for. If Nicole continues to do formal wear in the future, perhaps she should look into complementing her fabric-sculpting talent with a more tailored finesse.

All photos by Shallom.













All images taken by Shallom




